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Leather Saddles
> General Purpose Saddles
A saddle is a supportive structure for a rider or other load, fastened to an animal's back by a girth. The earliest saddles were simple pads attached with a surcingle seen by 800 BC, with the saddle tree coming into use circa 200 BC, and paired stirrups by 322 A.D. Modern saddles design dates back to the 18th and 19th centuries and come in a wide variety of styles, each designed for a specific riding discipline.
A saddle is a supportive structure for a rider or other load, fastened to an animal's back by a girth. The earliest saddles were simple pads attached with a surcingle seen by 800 BC, with the saddle tree coming into use circa 200 BC, and paired stirrups by 322 A.D. Modern saddles design dates back to the 18th and 19th centuries and come in a wide variety of styles, each designed for a specific riding discipline.
History
There is evidence that man first began riding the horse possibly as early as 4000 BC. It is not known precisely when riders first began to use some sort of padding or protection, but a blanket attached by some form of surcingle was probably the first "saddle,". There is verifiable evidence that in about 700-800 BC this first predecessor to the modern saddle was in use, Though they had neither a solid tree nor stirrups, these early treeless saddles and pads provided protection and comfort to the rider, with a slight increase in security.
There is evidence of a saddle that has the addition of a breastplate and a girth to help keep the saddle from about 300 BC.
The development of the solid saddle tree was significant; it raised the rider above the horse's back, and distributed the rider's weight on either side of the animal's spine instead of concentrating pressure in the area of contact with the rider's seat bones, reducing the weight carried on a small part of the horse's back, thus greatly increasing the comfort of the horse and prolonging its useful life. The introduction of the solid saddle tree also allowed the true stirrup to develop into the design known today. Without a solid tree, the rider's weight in the stirrups creates abnormal localised pressure points resulting in pain and damage to the horse’s back. Modern thermography studies on "treeless" and flexible tree saddle designs have found that there can be considerable friction across the center line of a horse's back.
Early Asian solid-treed saddles were made of felt that covered a wooden frame have been found that date to approximately 200 BC. The Romans were using a ‘four horn’ design of saddle tree as early as the first century BC. Neither of these saddles used stirrups.
Saddles were improved upon during the Middle Ages, as knights needed saddles that were stronger and offered more support. The resulting saddle had a higher cantle and pommel (to prevent the rider from being unseated in warfare) and was built on a wooden tree that supported more weight from a rider with armor and weapons. This saddle, a predecessor to the modern western saddle, was originally padded with wool or horsehair and covered in leather or textiles. It later evolved for use working cattle and bullfighting, as well as for war. Other saddles, derived from earlier, treeless designs, sometimes added solid trees to support stirrups, but were kept light for use by messengers and for horse racing.
The saddle eventually branched off into different designs that became the modern English and Western saddles.
François Robinchon de la Guérinière, a French riding master and author of "Ecole de Cavalerie" who made major contributions to what today is known as classical dressage started development of the modern Englsh saddle. He put great emphasis on the proper development of a "three point" seat that is still used today by many dressage riders. In the 18th century, fox hunting became increasingly popular in England. The high-cantle, high-pommel design of earlier saddles became a hindrance, unsafe and uncomfortable for riders as they jumped, so Guérinière's saddle design, with a low pommel and cantle which allowed for more freedom of movement for both horse and rider, became increasingly popular throughout northern Europe.
In the early 20th century, Captain Frederico Caprilli designed a revolutionary jumping saddle by placing the flap at an angle that allowed a rider to achieve the forward seat necessary for jumping high fences and traveling rapidly across rugged terrain.
The modern Western saddle evolved from the Iberian saddles that were brought by the Spanish Conquistadors when they came to the Americas. These saddles were adapted to suit the needs of vaqueros and cowboys of Mexico, Texas and California, including the addition of a horn that allowed a lariat to be tied or dallied for the purpose of holding cattle and other livestock.
Taking a wither pattern
Make sure your horse is standing square with head up and looking forward. From the near side feel for the top edge of the shoulder blade (Scapula). Lifting the nearside foreleg will help you find the Scapula. When you have located the highest point of the Scapula use a piece of chalk to mark a point three fingers BEHIND it (towards the tail).
Taking this mark as your starting point mould a flexicurve (or piece of stiff wire) up and over the wither. Aim to reach 7-8" down each side.
Squeeze and shape the flexicurve so that it hugs the contours of the horse's sides. Lift the flexicurve gently and put it down again in exactly the same place-it should settle snugly if it has moulded correctly. Lift it again and, carefully so as not to alter the shape, lay it onto a piece of paper and draw along the inside. Mark the nearside of the pattern on the paper.
Saddle Width
The D to D measurement is meaningless. Tree making is a separate trade to saddle making, though some saddle manufacturers do make their own trees.
Often two different saddle makers will buy the same tree and design a saddle on it. They will put the dees in different places, dictated by the saddle design (the shape and position of the skirts - the bits of leather that flap over the stirrup bars) so the d to d measurement will be different, but the tree is the same so the fit will be very similar.
Also you can have two different trees that are the same width fitting and have the same d to d measurement, one will have a V shaped front arch and the other a more open U shaped front arch, these different shapes will have very pronounced affects on the way the saddle fits.
Another factor that will have a great affect the fit is the 'Points' of the tree (the ends of the front arms that fit into the pockets under the skirts). Some point straight down from the tree, some are angled forward, some flare out sideways to the tree, some don't, some are long, some are short.
Any combination of the above can appear in two different saddles with the same D to D measurements.
The d to d measurement is a myth, a bit like the three fingers rule under the front arch, a very, very rough guide but bears little relation to reality.
The only ways to ensure the correct width is either to try the saddle on or take a wither pattern and compare that to the saddle.
There are hundreds of different combinations of factors that affect the fit of a saddle, here we have just touched on the front of the saddle without looking at the, panel, seat, type, style, horse's conformation, type and condition, riders size, weight, ability etc. It takes a lot of experience to become a good saddle fitter because the factors affecting the final product are often small and subtle.
Seat Size
To find the seat size of a saddle, measure from the saddle nail (either side of the pommel, at the front of the skirt) to the middle of the cantle
The seat size is measured in a straight line from the saddle nail at the head to the cantle's mid-point. Measure an existing saddle of a known size as a guide.
In general Seat sizes are: 15" child, 16 to 16 1/2" child to small adult, 17 to 17 1/2" regular or larger adult, 18 to 19" large adult As a guide to the rider's correct seat size, you ideally should be able to place 3 to 4 fingers width between yourself and the cantle of the saddle.
The saddle will be most comfortable, if it is purchased large enough for the rider to be able to stay away from the rise up to the pommel.
Trying the saddle
To fully assess the fit and comfort of any saddle it must be ridden on the horse. Make sure you follow any detailed advice provided by your saddler for the fit of your saddle.
When putting a saddle with a flocked panel onto a horse for the first time it may looked a little raised, but this should not be excessive. It should, with the horse stood square on level ground and be girthed up, looked balanced.
When mounted keep the horse in walk for 4-5 minutes to allow the saddle to settle. Check the girth tension as the saddle settles down.
Ideally the horse should be worked in trot and canter, and over jumps if required. Some small movement may occur as the saddle settles to the horse. Work the horse on both reins and make sure you feel comfortable and in balance.
Check that your horse moves freely under the saddle and that you have at least two fingers clearance over the wither.
How often should a saddle fit be checked?
We recommend that a professional assessment of the fit is carried out at least twice a year, three times for competitions horses, to allow for seasonal condition, diet and work changes in your horse's life, which can result in changes to the fit of the saddle.
Flocked panels should have a complete change of wool at least every two years to maintain an even and absorbing contact. For horses in competition this may well be reduced to eighteen months. This is outside of normal adjustment and management of the fit of the saddle.
It is particularly important to have the fit of the saddle checked if there is a major change in how you use your horse, if you progress from light hacking to competition, your horse will increases fitness his muscle structure will alter accordingly, thus altering his shape. The opposite also applies, a competition horse that is changed to light hacking, or a stabled horse that is turned out, will lose condition which will change the fit of his saddle.
Factors that affect the fit of the saddle.
• Always mounting from the ground, on the same side can cause the saddle to sit unevenly over time. It is always preferable to use a mounting block.
• Some riders sit more heavily to one side or collapse a hip putting more weight on one side of the saddle, this can cause the saddle to settle unevenly.
• Changes in type, frequency and amount of work the horse is doing.
• Changes in diet, grazing and turnout.
• Changes in weight and size of the rider, the type of rider, the experience of the rider.
• Seasonal weather changes, horses gain condition in the spring and early summer and lose condition in winter.
• Remember to care for your saddle and use a leather feed or balm regularly. Ensure that the underneath panel leather is not ignored, it is crucial to keep this area supple so that the panel is able to adapt fully to the shape of the horse, this will minimize the risk of pressure points.
• Numnahs & Pads need to be large enough so that the edging is clear of the saddle at all times, to avoid rubbing or chaffing on the bindings.
• Its important to use at least a basic thin numnah at all times to keep the saddle clean, this will stop the panel leather and flocking from absorbing perspiration and dirt, causing the saddle panel to become hard and uncomfortable on the horse.
• When girthing your saddle ensure you use the two outside girth straps, keep the middle strap as a spare. In most circumstances this will ensure the best girth line and keep the saddle more secure.
• Avoid using elastic ended girths on big rotund/fat type horses, one of the best girths to consider for these horses is the humane type which have self leveling buckle ends.
• If you are using an elastic girth, make sure the elastic has 3 layers of elastic thickness, 2 layers rarely provides enough tension when the girth is tightened. Weak or insufficient elastic can pull saddles off centre and such girths are best avoided.
• Ensure stirrup leathers are even in length.
Indications of a badly fitting saddle.
Changes in the horse's behaviour often indicate a sore back, which may be caused by a badly fitting saddle. Signs of back pain include:
• Normally sensible horses may start rushing over jumps, become strong in the mouth
• Reluctant to jump, or canter.
• Bucking is often a sign of pain caused by a badly fitting saddle, as is tail swishing.
• A horse may react when approached with a saddle, or try to nip as it is tacked up.
• Normally easy to catch horses may become difficult or evasive in the field.
• May 'sink' suddenly when mounted or rush away from the mounting block
• Previously easy loaders suddenly become reluctant to go up the ramp when loading.
• Some horses become agitated or nervy when mounted and set off on a hack or to start work.
• A horse may feel slightly uneven, pottery or obviously worse on one of his leads.
• Excessive movement and poor balance in the saddle
Indications of a well fitted saddle.
• With the rider mounted and without a numnah or pad, there is a minimum of 3 to 4 cm clearance between the underside of the pommel and the top of the horse's spine.
• The points of the tree are parallel to the horse's side
• The points of the tree sit about two to three fingers' width behind the horse's scapula, not on top of it.
• The gullet is wide enough so that the panels sit on either side of the spine, not on it.
• The panels should be smooth and symmetrical and follow the contours of the horse's back to spread the rider's weight evenly.
• The saddle should ride and sit evenly either side of the spine with the riders weight centred.
• The saddle is stable. It does not bounce excessively or slip to one side.
• A well-fitting saddle moves with the horse's motion. A saddle that rocks will often "chase" the rider's seat on a rising trot. That is, the cantle will actually move up faster than the rider and the action of the horse's hip.
Saddle Storage.
Avoid storing your saddle on the common frame type of saddle rack, they crease the panels and distort the pressure immediately behind the shoulder, the most important area of contact in the fit of your saddle. We suggest you consider for example a pole rack or saddle horse.Close Info
History
There is evidence that man first began riding the horse possibly as early as 4000 BC. It is not known precisely when riders first began to use some sort of padding or protection, but a blanket attached by some form of surcingle was probably the first "saddle,". There is verifiable evidence that in about 700-800 BC this first predecessor to the modern saddle was in use, Though they had neither a solid tree nor stirrups, these early treeless saddles and pads provided protection and comfort to the rider, with a slight increase in security.
There is evidence of a saddle that has the addition of a breastplate and a girth to help keep the saddle from about 300 BC.
The development of the solid saddle tree was significant; it raised the rider above the horse's back, and distributed the rider's weight on either side of the animal's spine instead of concentrating pressure in the area of contact with the rider's seat bones, reducing the weight carried on a small part of the horse's back, thus greatly increasing the comfort of the horse and prolonging its useful life. The introduction of the solid saddle tree also allowed the true stirrup to develop into the design known today. Without a solid tree, the rider's weight in the stirrups creates abnormal localised pressure points resulting in pain and damage to the horse’s back. Modern thermography studies on "treeless" and flexible tree saddle designs have found that there can be considerable friction across the center line of a horse's back.
Early Asian solid-treed saddles were made of felt that covered a wooden frame have been found that date to approximately 200 BC. The Romans were using a ‘four horn’ design of saddle tree as early as the first century BC. Neither of these saddles used stirrups.
Saddles were improved upon during the Middle Ages, as knights needed saddles that were stronger and offered more support. The resulting saddle had a higher cantle and pommel (to prevent the rider from being unseated in warfare) and was built on a wooden tree that supported more weight from a rider with armor and weapons. This saddle, a predecessor to the modern western saddle, was originally padded with wool or horsehair and covered in leather or textiles. It later evolved for use working cattle and bullfighting, as well as for war. Other saddles, derived from earlier, treeless designs, sometimes added solid trees to support stirrups, but were kept light for use by messengers and for horse racing.
The saddle eventually branched off into different designs that became the modern English and Western saddles.
François Robinchon de la Guérinière, a French riding master and author of "Ecole de Cavalerie" who made major contributions to what today is known as classical dressage started development of the modern Englsh saddle. He put great emphasis on the proper development of a "three point" seat that is still used today by many dressage riders. In the 18th century, fox hunting became increasingly popular in England. The high-cantle, high-pommel design of earlier saddles became a hindrance, unsafe and uncomfortable for riders as they jumped, so Guérinière's saddle design, with a low pommel and cantle which allowed for more freedom of movement for both horse and rider, became increasingly popular throughout northern Europe.
In the early 20th century, Captain Frederico Caprilli designed a revolutionary jumping saddle by placing the flap at an angle that allowed a rider to achieve the forward seat necessary for jumping high fences and traveling rapidly across rugged terrain.
The modern Western saddle evolved from the Iberian saddles that were brought by the Spanish Conquistadors when they came to the Americas. These saddles were adapted to suit the needs of vaqueros and cowboys of Mexico, Texas and California, including the addition of a horn that allowed a lariat to be tied or dallied for the purpose of holding cattle and other livestock.
Taking a wither pattern
Make sure your horse is standing square with head up and looking forward. From the near side feel for the top edge of the shoulder blade (Scapula). Lifting the nearside foreleg will help you find the Scapula. When you have located the highest point of the Scapula use a piece of chalk to mark a point three fingers BEHIND it (towards the tail).
Taking this mark as your starting point mould a flexicurve (or piece of stiff wire) up and over the wither. Aim to reach 7-8" down each side.
Squeeze and shape the flexicurve so that it hugs the contours of the horse's sides. Lift the flexicurve gently and put it down again in exactly the same place-it should settle snugly if it has moulded correctly. Lift it again and, carefully so as not to alter the shape, lay it onto a piece of paper and draw along the inside. Mark the nearside of the pattern on the paper.
Saddle Width
The D to D measurement is meaningless. Tree making is a separate trade to saddle making, though some saddle manufacturers do make their own trees.
Often two different saddle makers will buy the same tree and design a saddle on it. They will put the dees in different places, dictated by the saddle design (the shape and position of the skirts - the bits of leather that flap over the stirrup bars) so the d to d measurement will be different, but the tree is the same so the fit will be very similar.
Also you can have two different trees that are the same width fitting and have the same d to d measurement, one will have a V shaped front arch and the other a more open U shaped front arch, these different shapes will have very pronounced affects on the way the saddle fits.
Another factor that will have a great affect the fit is the 'Points' of the tree (the ends of the front arms that fit into the pockets under the skirts). Some point straight down from the tree, some are angled forward, some flare out sideways to the tree, some don't, some are long, some are short.
Any combination of the above can appear in two different saddles with the same D to D measurements.
The d to d measurement is a myth, a bit like the three fingers rule under the front arch, a very, very rough guide but bears little relation to reality.
The only ways to ensure the correct width is either to try the saddle on or take a wither pattern and compare that to the saddle.
There are hundreds of different combinations of factors that affect the fit of a saddle, here we have just touched on the front of the saddle without looking at the, panel, seat, type, style, horse's conformation, type and condition, riders size, weight, ability etc. It takes a lot of experience to become a good saddle fitter because the factors affecting the final product are often small and subtle.
Seat Size
To find the seat size of a saddle, measure from the saddle nail (either side of the pommel, at the front of the skirt) to the middle of the cantle
The seat size is measured in a straight line from the saddle nail at the head to the cantle's mid-point. Measure an existing saddle of a known size as a guide.
In general Seat sizes are: 15" child, 16 to 16 1/2" child to small adult, 17 to 17 1/2" regular or larger adult, 18 to 19" large adult As a guide to the rider's correct seat size, you ideally should be able to place 3 to 4 fingers width between yourself and the cantle of the saddle.
The saddle will be most comfortable, if it is purchased large enough for the rider to be able to stay away from the rise up to the pommel.
Trying the saddle
To fully assess the fit and comfort of any saddle it must be ridden on the horse. Make sure you follow any detailed advice provided by your saddler for the fit of your saddle.
When putting a saddle with a flocked panel onto a horse for the first time it may looked a little raised, but this should not be excessive. It should, with the horse stood square on level ground and be girthed up, looked balanced.
When mounted keep the horse in walk for 4-5 minutes to allow the saddle to settle. Check the girth tension as the saddle settles down.
Ideally the horse should be worked in trot and canter, and over jumps if required. Some small movement may occur as the saddle settles to the horse. Work the horse on both reins and make sure you feel comfortable and in balance.
Check that your horse moves freely under the saddle and that you have at least two fingers clearance over the wither.
How often should a saddle fit be checked?
We recommend that a professional assessment of the fit is carried out at least twice a year, three times for competitions horses, to allow for seasonal condition, diet and work changes in your horse's life, which can result in changes to the fit of the saddle.
Flocked panels should have a complete change of wool at least every two years to maintain an even and absorbing contact. For horses in competition this may well be reduced to eighteen months. This is outside of normal adjustment and management of the fit of the saddle.
It is particularly important to have the fit of the saddle checked if there is a major change in how you use your horse, if you progress from light hacking to competition, your horse will increases fitness his muscle structure will alter accordingly, thus altering his shape. The opposite also applies, a competition horse that is changed to light hacking, or a stabled horse that is turned out, will lose condition which will change the fit of his saddle.
Factors that affect the fit of the saddle.
• Always mounting from the ground, on the same side can cause the saddle to sit unevenly over time. It is always preferable to use a mounting block.
• Some riders sit more heavily to one side or collapse a hip putting more weight on one side of the saddle, this can cause the saddle to settle unevenly.
• Changes in type, frequency and amount of work the horse is doing.
• Changes in diet, grazing and turnout.
• Changes in weight and size of the rider, the type of rider, the experience of the rider.
• Seasonal weather changes, horses gain condition in the spring and early summer and lose condition in winter.
• Remember to care for your saddle and use a leather feed or balm regularly. Ensure that the underneath panel leather is not ignored, it is crucial to keep this area supple so that the panel is able to adapt fully to the shape of the horse, this will minimize the risk of pressure points.
• Numnahs & Pads need to be large enough so that the edging is clear of the saddle at all times, to avoid rubbing or chaffing on the bindings.
• Its important to use at least a basic thin numnah at all times to keep the saddle clean, this will stop the panel leather and flocking from absorbing perspiration and dirt, causing the saddle panel to become hard and uncomfortable on the horse.
• When girthing your saddle ensure you use the two outside girth straps, keep the middle strap as a spare. In most circumstances this will ensure the best girth line and keep the saddle more secure.
• Avoid using elastic ended girths on big rotund/fat type horses, one of the best girths to consider for these horses is the humane type which have self leveling buckle ends.
• If you are using an elastic girth, make sure the elastic has 3 layers of elastic thickness, 2 layers rarely provides enough tension when the girth is tightened. Weak or insufficient elastic can pull saddles off centre and such girths are best avoided.
• Ensure stirrup leathers are even in length.
Indications of a badly fitting saddle.
Changes in the horse's behaviour often indicate a sore back, which may be caused by a badly fitting saddle. Signs of back pain include:
• Normally sensible horses may start rushing over jumps, become strong in the mouth
• Reluctant to jump, or canter.
• Bucking is often a sign of pain caused by a badly fitting saddle, as is tail swishing.
• A horse may react when approached with a saddle, or try to nip as it is tacked up.
• Normally easy to catch horses may become difficult or evasive in the field.
• May 'sink' suddenly when mounted or rush away from the mounting block
• Previously easy loaders suddenly become reluctant to go up the ramp when loading.
• Some horses become agitated or nervy when mounted and set off on a hack or to start work.
• A horse may feel slightly uneven, pottery or obviously worse on one of his leads.
• Excessive movement and poor balance in the saddle
Indications of a well fitted saddle.
• With the rider mounted and without a numnah or pad, there is a minimum of 3 to 4 cm clearance between the underside of the pommel and the top of the horse's spine.
• The points of the tree are parallel to the horse's side
• The points of the tree sit about two to three fingers' width behind the horse's scapula, not on top of it.
• The gullet is wide enough so that the panels sit on either side of the spine, not on it.
• The panels should be smooth and symmetrical and follow the contours of the horse's back to spread the rider's weight evenly.
• The saddle should ride and sit evenly either side of the spine with the riders weight centred.
• The saddle is stable. It does not bounce excessively or slip to one side.
• A well-fitting saddle moves with the horse's motion. A saddle that rocks will often "chase" the rider's seat on a rising trot. That is, the cantle will actually move up faster than the rider and the action of the horse's hip.
Saddle Storage.
Avoid storing your saddle on the common frame type of saddle rack, they crease the panels and distort the pressure immediately behind the shoulder, the most important area of contact in the fit of your saddle. We suggest you consider for example a pole rack or saddle horse.Close Info